In the Art Biennale’s Shadow, Venice Celebrates Music, Too

The glistening domes of St. Mark’s Basilica seem to billow over Venice’s largest plaza. In the 19th century, when the church was already almost a thousand years old, a mosaic was added above the main entrance, with two angels hovering near Jesus and blowing the trumpets that signal the Last Judgment.

The striking placement of the image — you can’t miss it — symbolizes music’s historical centrality in the city that has been home to giants extending from the days of Vivaldi, Gabrieli, Monteverdi and Cavalli to 20th-century masters like Luigi Nono. On a recent Thursday evening at the basilica, under the auspices of the Venice Music Biennale, two choirs in lofts high above the ground faced each other across the glittering gold interior and filled the vast expanse with a “Stabat Mater” by Giovanni Croce, a piece that was written to be performed in this very space some 425 years ago.

These days, though, Venice is more of an art town. Every other year, crowds swell this floating labyrinth of twisting alleys and lapping canals for the enormous, seven-month-long Venice Art Biennale, one of the defining events of the global visual arts scene. In 2022, over 800,000 tickets were sold; this year’s iteration continues through Nov. 24.

While the Venice Film Festival (organized, like the art event, by La Biennale di Venezia) is world-famous, you could be forgiven for not knowing that under the Biennale’s umbrella are also festivals devoted to architecture, dance and theater — and to music. As fall begins, the temperature cools and the city becomes ever so slightly emptier, the music biennial opens for a two-week stretch of roughly hourlong performances; I attended nine of them over five days earlier this month.

Like the art festival, the Music Biennale ventures beyond established exhibition spaces to Venice’s palazzos and churches. It has a base at the Arsenale, a complex of old shipyards and factories, but it sprawls across the city for site-specific concerts: multichoral pieces at St. Mark’s Basilica, delicate viola da gamba duets in the ornate 16th-century Marciana Library, grand ensembles at the gilded Fenice opera house.