Allison Tolman of ‘St. Denis Medical’ Knows Her Worth

“Hello, baby,” the actress Allison Tolman said to a handsome male. “Look at your mustache.” He crawled into her lap.

This was an afternoon in late September and Tolman, a star of the NBC mockumentary “St. Denis Medical,” which premieres on Nov. 12, was at Meow Parlour, a cat cafe on the Lower East Side. Tolman grew up with cats — alongside dogs, lizards and guinea pigs — and has lived with them for the whole of her adult life. “When you have a home, obviously you put a cat in it,” she said.

Her Instagram bio reads “Childless Cat Lady” (also “proud member of the Perfect Breast Community” and “Rich Man”) and on her left ring finger she wears two thin gold bands, one engraved with the name of her first cat, Annie, the other with her current cat, Bud.

“I just think I’ll always have cats,” she said. “Cats have their own lives, their own things going on.”

Tolman, 42, also keeps busy, selectively. She broke out at 32, with the lead role in the first season of the FX drama “Fargo,” and has spent a decade convincing producers that she is a leading lady, not the co-worker, the best friend, the mom. Choosy, she passes on any role that doesn’t seem substantial enough for her or mentions a character’s weight. (That she is considered a plus-size actress even as she is a straight-size woman “doesn’t make me feel insane at all,” she said dryly.)