Toby Lamb, design and brand director at Richard James, has spent 30 years working in the world of bespoke tailoring and fashion design, and dressed the Gallagher brothers
A designer who kitted out Oasis back in the 90s, and even comissioned Liam Gallagher’s wedding suit, has dubbed it an “amazing period” in his life.
Toby Lamb, 52, the design and brand director at Richard James on swanky Savile Row, has been at the heart of bespoke tailoring and fashion design for three decades, kicking off his career with the brand in 1996.
Throughout the years, Richard James’ snazzy designs have attracted a star-studded clientele, including big names like Tom Hardy, Stormzy, Andrew Garfield, Sir David Beckham, Mark Ronson, and Hugh Grant – but back in 1996, at the height of their stardom, Oasis lads Liam and Noel Gallagher, along with their bandmates, were all over the label.
Now a dad-of-two, Toby reminisced about getting a private show from Oasis at an empty Wembley Arena during rehearsals, and the “fantastic” buzz of crafting Liam’s getup for his 1997 nuptials to Patsy Kensit.
With the Gallagher bros gearing up for a reunion on stage for the Oasis Live ’25 Tour next month, and Richard James prepping to drop its new autumn-winter line-up, chock-full of 90s throwbacks, Toby reckons the band’s look is “absolutely timeless” and still a “staple of menswear today”.
“Back then in the late ’90s, we weren’t marketing and there was no social media, everything we were doing was word of mouth,” Toby told PA.
“There was a point when we realised both Liam and Noel were wearing Richard James as their day wear, in addition to our tailoring specifically for their music videos and concerts, and then ultimately they’re getting married in the label – and that was all their own choice.
“A lot of big brands now might have the budget to gift lots of products to celebrities but back then that just didn’t happen.
“It was very reassuring to know we were doing something right and it was an amazing period of my life.”
Toby studied fashion design with marketing at Central Saint Martins in London, before he became an intern at Richard James.
He was offered a permanent position at the company in 1996 after completing his degree.
Back in the day, Toby would assist with clothing designs and work on the shop floor alongside Richard himself and his business partner, Sean Dixon.
“It was a tiny store at the start but it felt as though we were at the epicentre of what was going on at the time,” Toby said.
“We had a lot of very cool, creative people coming in and we were working with everybody whether they were buying ready-to-wear or wanting bespoke commissions. It was just an insane time.”
The same year, the Savile Row tailors started their professional relationship with Oasis, working on bespoke commissions to style the band.
“They were everywhere at the time, they were huge,” Toby said.
“I was working in the store, I think it was a Friday afternoon, and Liam and Noel just kind of bowled in.
“I remember Noel coming in and saying he was after a shirt he had seen someone wearing in Saint-Tropez.”
Toby reminisced how he directed Noel to the blue striped number that graced their collection at the time, and the Oasis frontman made the purchase with contentment.
“From there, we had many, many bespoke commissions from both Liam and Noel for at least two and a half years,” Toby spilled.
Looking back on a cherished memory with the rock legends, Toby mentioned the duo had a penchant for “classic and elegant” white suits for the Be Here Now tour in 1997, which the Richard James team tailored backstage at Wembley Arena.
“We got a call from their management company, saying ‘You’ve gotta get over here quick, you’ve got 10 minutes while they’re rehearsing’,” Toby shared.
In a flash, he hopped into a taxi and arrived to find the arena void of fans.
“Liam saw us and told us to come down to the front, and then they played a full set which went on for about an hour and a half.
“I couldn’t believe my luck, it was an amazing moment.”
He threw in that they even nicked backstage to fit the lads’ suits before chilling out with drinks and a bit of banter.
In addition, Toby chuckled as he recalled aiding Liam and his missus at the time, Kensit, giving paparazzi the slip.
“The doors burst open one day and Liam and Patsy came running in and asked if they could hide out back as they were being hounded by the paparazzi,” he recalled.
“At the time, I had been reading a copy of The Face magazine which landed on my desk that morning and Patsy Kensit was on the front cover.
“She said ‘Wow, I’ve not seen this issue yet’, and they both sat down while reading this magazine.
“It was really funny because the headline said ‘My Life with Liam’ … that was a crazy moment.”
The brand also collaborated with the brothers on a personal level, crafting a bespoke suit for Liam for his wedding to Patsy in 1997.
“It was a really lovely project, we created a Nehru collared, five-button jacket … chocolate brown flannel with a low-rise trouser with a boot cut,” Toby shared.
“They both looked incredible but at the time, there was so much press around them getting hitched, when it would be, what they would wear.
“We were sworn to absolute secrecy but ultimately for us, it was a fantastic commission.”
For Richard James’ autumn-winter collection, Toby revealed there has been “a revival for the ’90s” and he revisited their archive to pull various influences to form their forthcoming range.
“The style [Oasis] curated, mod revival mixed with ’80s terrace casual, was just absolutely timeless,” he expressed.
“They blended the two and just ran with it, and it still feels very relevant today.
“A lot of those pieces, like the Parka, the Harrington jacket, the corduroy trouser, the polo shirts – they’re very much a staple of menswear today.
“It’s a very accessible look that anybody can aspire to and wear with confidence, it was and is open for anybody to take on as their own.”
Source: Celebrities - dailystar.co.uk
