‘La Cocina’ Review: The Melting Pot Boils Over
This drama by Alonso Ruizpalacios takes a bitter look at the American dream from the perspective of the workers at a fast-paced diner.“Somebody tell us a dream,” says Pedro (Raúl Briones), a charismatic line cook at a Times Square diner. He’s on a smoke break with co-workers — “the United Nations,” quips one of them, referring to their diverse origins. Nonzo, a Brooklyn-born dessert chef (Motell Foster) responds to Pedro, who is from Mexico, waxing philosophical about an immigrant who spends his sad, long days after passing through Ellis Island working at a pizza joint.“La Cocina,” a kitchen drama shot in velvety black-and-white, is the first English-language movie by the Mexican director Alonso Ruizpalacios. But the kitchen staff’s Spanish takes up nearly as much of the dialogue, fueling the film’s cultural and political tensions.Ruizpalacios adapted the script from Arnold Wesker’s play “The Kitchen,” which was set in London. He keeps the central romance between Pedro and Julia (a waitress played by Rooney Mara), and also explores the realities of undocumented immigrants and worker exploitation in New York City.The film starts from the point of view of the new cook, Estella (Anna Díaz), and then skips around the ensemble’s various dramas: a white American cook (Spenser Granese) is fed up with the Spanish speakers in his midst, an abusive manager (Eduardo Olmos) is tasked with finding a thief and Julia is at odds with Pedro over an abortion. In one scene, the soda machine breaks, flooding the kitchen during a lunchtime rush; the workers look like sailors on a sinking boat.Hellish moments like this help explain why everyone’s a bit cruel and calloused at work. Imagine such pressure — and, for many undocumented workers, the knowledge that you won’t be hired anywhere better. But Ruizpalacios diminishes these hard truths with flashy bids at profundity. The film’s epic finale feels stagy — while these real-life frustrations are anything but.La CocinaRated R for sex and physical violence. Running time: 2 hours 19 minutes. In theaters. More
