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    This Is Not a Taylor Swift Profile

    Section 301, In the second-to-highest tier of Levi’s Stadium, floats 105 feet above Santa Clara, Calif. It comprises 251 seats — a mere hamlet in the vast 64,000-seat general kingdom of the place, but it was our hamlet, and on the last Saturday in July, we took up each one of those seats and watched, our collective breath held, as Taylor Swift emerged from a bevy of billowing pastel parachutes and rose up on a platform to perform the 47th show of her Eras Tour. A few songs in, she announced, laughing, that her father told her that Santa Clara had named her its honorary mayor during her two-night stay there and that the entire town had been renamed Swiftie Clara. On the way in, we saw the Police Department cheerfully exchanging friendship bracelets with legions of Swifties. The microcosm of Section 301 offered this same sense of sorority. What a nice neighborhood we had moved into, my 15-year-old son, Ezra, and I. Within minutes of sitting down, we were already a community with a shared, ardent sense of purpose. Listen to This ArticleOpen this article in the New York Times Audio app on iOS.The mood was solemn — spiritual, even. I have prayed at dawn at the Temple Mount. I have stood among quivering supplicants at the graves of biblical forefathers. I have walked in trembling silence as I entered farther and farther into the inner sanctums of the Vatican. This was like that, except for girls. The young women to Ezra’s left wore moody black “Reputation”-era dress and could not have been more than 16. They were speechless and breathless and did not move or sit down once the entire night because they were afraid they might miss something. Three rows back sat a line of tweens in pink sundresses, white cowgirl hats and sparkling cowgirl boots — Taylor Swift’s debut era for her self-titled album. To my right were two men wearing matching T-shirts that said: “IT’S ME, HI. I’M THE HUSBAND. IT’S ME.” Their wives, who were friends, chose (smartly) to sit together on one side. During songs they didn’t know, which were most of them, they talked to one another, using words like “reps” and “C.E.O.” and “acquisition.” But listen: Over my right shoulder, just above the HUSBANDs and their wives, stood a young man with a glitter heart around his eye, like the one Taylor wears on the pastel cover of the “Lover” album, accompanied by a young woman, I guess his girlfriend, who wore a sparkly purple dress, like the one Taylor wears on the cover of “Speak Now.” If our kingdom was also our high school and our hamlet our homeroom, they were our prom king and queen. On the stage below, Taylor made her way from her “Lover” era to her “Fearless” one, and suddenly she was singing “Love Story,” one of her many early songs in which a girl loves a boy but he doesn’t love her back, or he doesn’t know to love her back because of some other girl who has unjustly commandeered his love. Or, in the case of “Love Story,” she’s Juliet, and there’s so much drama with Romeo’s family, and we all know what’s going to happen if they can’t be together.But then we get to the bridge, and the story changes. In “Love Story,” just as Juliet is despairing and hopeless, Romeo drops to his knees and tells her he has talked to her father and asks her to marry him. And here, in 301, on our very own balcony, something crazy happens. Over my and Ezra’s right shoulders, just behind the HUSBANDs, THE PROM KING ASKS THE PROM QUEEN TO MARRY HIM! AND THE PROM QUEEN SAYS YES!!!Does Section 301 go wild! We take pictures and congratulate them. We ask to see the ring. We shake our heads with our mouths open because this night is sparkling and young love is amazing.“Did you see that?” one of the HUSBANDs asked. I told him I did.“What are you writing down?” he asked. I told him that I’m a writer for this magazine and that I was writing about Taylor Swift.“Huh,” he said. “I would think that they’d give The New York Times better seats.”“You and me both,” I answered. The truth is, I bought these seats on my own.“Are you talking to her?” he asked. I told him no. I told him I had made my requests but was turned down. My boss, too. Her publicist had politely told us that she was too busy to do an interview. And that’s probably true. Or maybe she has an exclusive somewhere else. Or — and this was what I’d been thinking lately — maybe we were in entirely new territory. She hasn’t done a traditional magazine profile since 2019. She announced this tour on “Good Morning America” and her very own social-media accounts. She released two pandemic albums, “folklore” and “evermore,” by dropping them into the world with a day’s notice. For “folklore,” she released a full-length film in which she expounds on each song; it was called “Folklore: The Long Pond Studio Sessions,” and it was directed and produced by Ms. Taylor Alison Swift and needed no intermediary to explain it to her audience.She has become one of a new breed of postmedia celebrities who have set new rules of engagement with both the media and the fans. Technology has risen to meet these new rules, and perhaps there really is nothing I can offer her, that we the media can offer her, that would help her sell more albums or become better known or more successful or more beloved than she already is. Witness this historic cultural event: this no-signs-of-stopping, local-economy-upending tour. Eras is its own news cycle, its own tabloid, its own Tumblr, its own news release and, as we would find out in a few weeks, its own movie set.And we in Section 301 were enthralled by her, even though we couldn’t actually see her from where we were sitting. All we could really see was a tiny figure in an angelic dress, running across the stage down below. Our only proof that she was actually in the stadium was that the people close to the stage seemed to believe that she was, and we chose to believe them. But it didn’t even matter that we couldn’t see her. Our devotion is maximal; her engagement is total. We were in a trance. “That’s crazy,” said the HUSBAND, who turned back to the other HUSBAND to discuss, I think, baseball.Now, below, the mayor of Swiftie Clara was sitting at a moss-covered piano for a song called “Champagne Problems.” It’s a song about a woman who turns down a man’s proposal. Some of us in Section 301 shared a knowing laugh-nod because we knew that our prom queen’s rejecting the king’s proposal had been a possible outcome of what we just saw, and we were all very happy that we didn’t have to sit in that particular awkwardness. I looked up over my shoulder at the prom queen again. Her attention was burrowed toward the stage, as she mouthed the words to all the songs in deep concentration. Philip Montgomery for The New York TimesThe HUSBAND was talking to me again. He was saying he’d heard that Taylor Swift stood to make a billion dollars by the time this tour was through, and was asking if I had, too, but I needed him to repeat the question. I was still thinking about our prom queen, in her purple dress, about the way your life could change in the middle of a song you’d been listening to for years. I was thinking about the notion of dividing a life into befores and afters — into eras; I was thinking about the way that it feels as if you’re always leaving things behind. Ezra and I had arrived hours before showtime, to a stadium that was already almost completely full. The sun was still bright when we went to take our spots on the merch line, which — how can I describe it? Have you ever seen old pictures of Ellis Island? I told Ezra to stay close.We thought we were beating the system by ascending to the third level, but the joke was on us. We saw two merch stands, advertising $70 hoodies and $35 T-shirts. We had been warned that the sheer numbers would create the kind of chaos that exhausts a concertgoer before the opening act. I’d read savage stories about fans’ fainting in line or wearing adult diapers. But our line was peaceful; what nobody talked about when they posted crowd photos on social media was how gentle the experience was, an atmospheric sage-burning in time for the season of this football stadium’s normal, violent uses. Around us, stranger approached stranger and held out a wrist full of beaded bracelets that named various Taylor Swift albums, which were here doing business as “eras,” to choose from; stranger took another era off her own wrist and traded it back, a wordless ritual that everyone understood. Stranger was no longer stranger but friend. They were dressed as circus ringleaders and fully rendered mirrorballs. They were swamp creatures and zombies. They wore bustled strapless petticoated gowns; they donned black velvet hooded capes. They were girls in the bleachers; they were enchanted to meet you.The organizing principle of the Eras Tour is that it is a celebration of Taylor Swift’s own eras — how, at 33, she has already cycled through so many periods of identity on her public journey from girl to woman. Her life story is one that you could read about in the reams of magazine profiles that have been written about her over the years, one that even the least Swift-engaged young women across at least two generations have learned by sheer internet use and osmosis: She grew up on a Christmas-tree farm in Wyomissing, Pa., where she would listen to Shania Twain and Faith Hill and LeAnn Rimes and watch VH1’s “Behind the Music” and record demo tapes to send to Nashville. At 12, she sang the national anthem at a 76ers game. Soon after, she called her friends to see if they wanted to go shopping with her, but they all said they were busy. So her mother took her to the mall instead, and there were her friends, hanging out together. Her mother turned her around and took her to a different mall, but you can imagine that Taylor Swift died a little that day, and what she was reborn as was someone for whom there was not enough love and approval in the whole world. She would write a song about the experience, and she would feel better. She would realize that this new person she had become was someone whose best work would come from her reactions to the world, her urgent metabolization of her pain into poetry.The Swifts moved to Nashville to help support Taylor’s career, and one night, at a talent showcase at the Bluebird Cafe, she caught the eye of a Universal executive named Scott Borchetta. In 2005, Borchetta started his own label, Big Machine, and signed her immediately. It soon became clear that her music could serve the audience segment that country music had long neglected — teenage girls.“Which era are you?” one of three young women behind us in line asked. Have I mentioned the glitter? It was everywhere, and these three were covered in it. They were 18 or 19, and the one who asked me was wearing a gold, fringey dress, which connotes the “Fearless” era. “You Belong With Me,” off Swift’s second album, won a Video Music Award for best female video. During her speech, Kanye West stormed the stage and announced that it was actually Beyoncé who had made the best video of the year, leaving Taylor standing there, frozen, stunned and confused for too long a period. You could see in the ensuing years, as she talked about it in the press, that she was slowly coming to understand what really happened on that stage, which was that she had been murdered again, right there in front of everyone she knew and respected.“Oh,” I said to the young woman who posed the question, looking down at my outfit. I was wearing a bootleg gray T-shirt with a design of Taylor’s face wearing sunglasses. The sunglasses reflected back the numbers 1989. “I guess I’m ‘1989’? That was the first album I liked, but ‘Reputation’ is my favorite.”Her friends were in different eras, too. One was wearing a variation on a fluffy purple dress that a lot of them were wearing — the “Speak Now” era — and the other was wearing a black fedora and black sequin hot pants and a T-shirt that said: “WHO’S TAYLOR SWIFT ANYWAY? EW,” from the “Red” era. Part of the Swiftian ethos is learning how to take something that seems like a diss and turn it into a last laugh.“The era isn’t the album you like,” the “Red” one said. “It’s the one you are.”“Like, it’s where you’re at these days, you know?” the “Speak Now” one said.I nodded. Made sense. Ezra had to go to the bathroom, but so many of the men’s rooms had been turned into women’s rooms for the event that we hadn’t seen one from the line so far. I sent him off.Taylor released “Speak Now” the year after the Kanye incident. They had become something like friends; they even had dinner sometimes. By then, she seemed to feel bad for him. The world had judged him harshly for his behavior. The literal president, Barack Obama, had called him a jackass. Taylor wrote a song that is almost certainly about Kanye, called “Innocent.” “Who you are is not what you did,” it goes. On a visit to her Nashville apartment, a journalist noticed a framed photo of the moment Kanye interrupted her on the V.M.A. stage, a twisted reminder of either the fact that you can triumph over your own repeated murder or the fact that at any moment of triumph someone will be there to kneecap you. Ezra returned from the bathroom. “Wow,” he said. “The men’s room was emp-ty.” We’d been in the line for what seemed like hours by then. He’d grown a little bit of beard while he was gone. “It was really nice, actually. Peaceful.”Philip Montgomery for The New York TimesBy the time “Red” came out in 2012, Taylor was still holding on to who she wanted to be: a hardworking, songwriting-obsessed, fan-obsessed country-singing juggernaut. But if this story were one of Taylor’s beloved “Behind the Music” episodes, an ominous voice would come in and say that here was where things started to fray. People were starting to say that she dated too much. They said she cared too much. They accused her of being insincere. Some of the songs on her new album, “1989,” were about old relationships, but a lot of them featured this cartoon version of herself that she was hearing about — the version that stays out too late and goes on too many dates (“Shake It Off”), or the one that has a long list of ex-lovers who will tell you she’s insane (“Blank Space”). She stopped dating, and in the place of male romantic partners she formed a supergroup of famous female friends — everyone from Lena Dunham to the model Karlie Kloss to Lorde to Selena Gomez — and on the tour for “1989,” she marched those friends of hers out onto the stage for everyone to see. Take that, mallrat bitches of Wyomissing!Her music had changed by then. Suddenly, her slow creep from country sped into pure pop, leaving country behind, wishing it well and taking only its tradition of sinuous storytelling with her. Her voice changed, too. Gone was the yodelly vocal flip of the country singer. By then, we had endured a long moment of female artists whose voices seemed outsize for the body of a regular human: melismatic, with 10 notes to a syllable of a word, or a gravelly voice, where a woman sounds as if she is digging down, grinding something out. Consider Taylor’s approach: a voice so pure and pretty that it makes you wonder why so many of her musical peers and predecessors work so hard. It’s not an otherworldly voice, but a specifically worldly one. She sings how you would sing if you were talking and became so overcome with emotion that your voice was lifted and carried by it. It’s how I would sing if I could. Now Ezra wanted to check out the concession stand. I gave him some money and sent him off, noting a subtle balding that had begun around his temples. Two women wearing stuffed snakes around their necks came up, and one handed me her phone and asked if I could take their picture.The snake is Taylor’s biggest and best version of the diss-to-last-laugh boomerang, the “WHO’S TAYLOR SWIFT ANYWAY? EW” writ impossibly large and deadly. After the “1989” tour, in 2015, after the showboating of the friends onstage, after moving to New York and starting a new life, things got weird. In 2016, her friend Kanye resurfaced with a lyric in a new song called “Famous” that went: “I feel like me and Taylor might still have sex. Why? I made that bitch famous.” He made an accompanying video that featured what looked like Taylor Swift naked in bed with him (along with several other naked celebrities), though it was only a likeness of her. Taylor was appalled by it, but Kanye said he had her permission. His wife at the time, Kim Kardashian, released an edited video clip that appeared to support Kanye’s claim. Taylor continued to deny it, and later, when the full video surfaced, it was clear that Taylor was telling the truth. Now it was war. Kim Kardashian posted snake emojis, and everyone knew she was talking about you-know-who. A crowd at a Kanye show chanted, “[Expletive] Taylor Swift!” This came after a minor Twitter beef with Nicki Minaj and amid a falling-out with Calvin Harris. It seemed as though the entire world had turned on her. Now, they said, it was clear that she had always been a fraud. Now, they said, it was clear that even her feminism wasn’t real; it consisted of lining up her pretty, mostly white friends onstage to take pictures or wear matching bathing suits on the Fourth of July. And what kind of feminism was that video for “Bad Blood,” which features a bajillion famous women, when the song itself is said to be about a grudge Taylor had against Katy Perry?Taylor is a digital native. She watched this all play out and knew she couldn’t fight the tidal wave that had come for her. She nuked her social media and disappeared. Her website was nothing but a black page. When she re-emerged on social media, it was with a grainy video of — was that … ? It was a snake.“Reputation,” released a few months later, is an album full not of apology but of confession (real or performed). It is filled with ferocious songs of self-loathing, of admitted (ibid.) manipulations, of a self-awareness so minute that it is uncomfortable to look at directly. Witness “This Is Why We Can’t Have Nice Things,” another song that is supposedly about Kanye, in which she begins laughing too hard to sing when she talks about forgiving him. Witness “End Game,” in which she sings, “Ooooh, I got some big enemies.” If you watch the Netflix special that documents the “Reputation” tour, you’ll see there’s a moment when she looks around at the stadium cheering for her. Much has been made about the Taylor Swift Surprise Face, an aw-shucks meme that might have been its own impetus for cancellation in the first place — you’re not allowed to show your surprise at your dominance during your dominance, even if you mean it. But what is the appropriate response to finding out that after your brutal death and your miraculous rebirth, you’re still so, so beloved? You can see in her eyes that she wasn’t just back in her fans’ embrace; she was realizing, night after night, that she never left it.Ezra returned with some nachos. I don’t want to brag, but he’s a doctor now! He had gotten married and bought a co-op downtown. They toasted me at the wedding, he said, me in this endless line for T-shirts.I saw someone draped in a sheet, and I wondered aloud if maybe it was someone who was afraid that her boss would see her skipping work for a concert. The young woman in front of me, a college student who had come in from Sacramento and was here for a second night in a row, said, “No, that’s all the people that she ghosted in the room” — a reference to “Anti-Hero,” a single from “Midnights.”The college student told me that the night before, she’d been “baptized” — her word. She’s in her 20s now, but she has been listening to Taylor Swift since she was a teenager. She used to sing her songs in front of a mirror, alone in her bedroom, and Taylor Swift was a part of her childhood, not just in the way you look back fondly, but in the ways you look back with embarrassment.“All the ways you’re so ashamed of the person you were right before this moment,” she said. “You could so easily be ashamed of singing Taylor Swift in your bedroom. You could leave it behind. But she doesn’t let you. She says, ‘Look, I’m getting older, too.’ You grow with her. What if we weren’t ashamed of our eras? What if we realized they were always with us, and you just didn’t have to feel shame about who you were?” She started crying; baby, I did, too.“Mom,” Ezra said, his aging eyes aglow. “Look!” I turned to see that we had arrived at the front of the line. It was 10 minutes to showtime. We had been in line for two and a half hours, but somehow there was still merch to be had — a miracle! Instead of the T-shirts we were planning to buy, I got us both hoodies. The air was warm, but we were old now, and we got cold more easily than we did before. The sky turned into smeared unicorn pastels; it was in its “Lover” era now. A perfect moon hung over the stadium, a beautiful satellite suspended over a limitless star. Below us, in a purple dress that looked like a cake topper, holding a blue guitar, Taylor pumped her fist and sang: “Long live the walls we crashed through. How the kingdom lights shined just for me and you.”Philip Montgomery for The New York TimesI couldn’t stop looking over my shoulder at the prom queen. Was I imagining her middle-distance stare? Please keep in mind that the answer is a resolute maybe with a high probability of probably. But hear me out: I was thinking about what my new friend from Sacramento told me in the endless merch line. You could watch this concert — you could watch this entire phenomenon — through the eyes of the idea that Taylor Swift frees women to celebrate their girlhood, to understand that their womanhood is made up of these microchapters of change, that we’re not different people than we were then, that we shouldn’t disavow the earlier versions of ourselves, our earlier eras. If you do look at it that way, you can also imagine why a young woman who tried to share Taylor Swift, this seminal part of her childhood, with the man she loves might have some feelings (again, this is conjecture! I might be making this up based on nothing more than a whim and a projection!) about the fact that he took a song she sang in her childhood bedroom and essentially hijacked it, making it about him and their relationship instead.“There’s not a lot of sex in this show,” one of the HUSBANDs, the other one, said now. They had switched seats, and he was bored by the “Speak Now” era. “That’s because this isn’t for you,” I told him, and I found myself getting angry as I spoke. “She wasn’t created to please you like the other women pop stars. She created herself to please me. She escaped the machine where women are only allowed to be pop stars if they don’t anger or threaten men. This just isn’t for you.”He squinted his eyes and furrowed his brow and pursed his lips and nodded like he understood, but I didn’t care, and I turned away.The HUSBAND wasn’t exactly wrong, though. No matter how grindy or seductive Taylor’s dance moves can be, she is also making funny faces while she does them. During “Vigilante [Expletive],” where the choreography isn’t not like a burlesque show, she has a move where she puts one leg up on the seat of a chair. Sometimes, when she performs it, she puts her hand on her chest, fingers pointing south, and starts to slide it down as she sings, “Lately she’s been dressing for revenge.” But as her hand passes her solar plexus, she gives a scandalized “What? Me?” look and laughs with her audience. Her dancing is a combination of intricately executed choreography and the kind of literal-gesture dancing that has you put your thumb and pinkie to your head to indicate a phone call. It’s a form of dancing I haven’t done in front of anyone for years; it’s the kind of thing I used to do with a group of other young women or girls when there were no boys around, or at least no boys we cared to impress. That’s what this entire concert reminded me of — time I spent in my own teenage bedroom, singing songs and pinballing between sexy stripper moves and goofy square dancing. Maybe that’s what Eras really is: the acknowledgment of girls as people to memorialize, of who we are and who we were, all existing in the same body, on the same timeline. You are your sluttiest version, your silliest version, your most wholesome, your smartest, your dumbest, your saddest, your happiest — all at once. I looked back again at the prom king and queen. He meant well, the poor guy. He knew how much she loved Taylor Swift, probably, and that song in particular. I wonder if she’d seen that TikTok/Instagram Reel where the entire wedding is jump-singing “Love Story,” and maybe one night she turned to him and said: “Look at this. Isn’t this something?” Maybe a plan began to hatch in his head, and he stood over the computer during the Ticketmaster fiasco and figured out how to get two tickets. He landed in the republic of Section 301 knowing, just knowing, that this was going to be the moment. He was going to give her what she wanted. If you listen to Taylor Swift enough, you would think that this was what we wanted.But listen more carefully. Read the liner notes. Decipher the codes. Know your Taylor Swift history. Her songbook is really only minimally about romantic love, and the best part of romantic love, which is its moment of revelation. It’s maximally about the other things that happen to a person in life: about the sometimes-questionable, sometimes-great, sometimes-tragic aftermath of that revelation, but it’s also about loss and betrayal and friendship and revenge.Witness Taylor Swift, in a white dress with sleeves that became what appeared, from where I was sitting, to be wings whenever she ran or danced, singing “My Tears Ricochet” — a song that poses as a love song but is really about a different kind of devastation.She begins curled up on the floor, standing only as her backup dancers, dressed in funereal black, join her. She starts to walk slowly, and they follow her, looking down. In 2019, Scott Borchetta sold Big Machine — and, with it, her masters — to the talent manager Scooter Braun, a man she hated. According to a Tumblr post she wrote in June that year, Borchetta’s company did give her the opportunity to get the masters back, but also insisted that, in exchange, she had to make a commensurate number of new albums, a kind of indentured servitude. She refused, and later announced that she would be rerecording her albums. The originals would be available still, but the new ones, the kosher ones, would be demarcated as “(Taylor’s Version).”Philip Montgomery for The New York Times“My Tears Ricochet” is a heartbreaker. I cannot remember a song about business malfeasance that is so affecting, that would cause 64,000 people to scream on your behalf. It is one of the fiercest and best-crafted songs I’ve ever heard.Especially the bridge. Taylor Swift loves bridges: The internet is rife not just with lists of and debates about the best bridges of her songs, but with videos of people sing-screaming those bridges as they run alongside the mechanism that’s recording them. In particular, she loves the kind of bridge that changes the nature of the song, as in “Out of the Woods,” a song about a doomed relationship where the bridge returns to the perspective of not yet knowing it’s doomed, or “the 1,” where someone breezily catching an ex-lover up on her new life shifts to the tenser question beneath the interaction, about where exactly the relationship went wrong. The bridge in “My Tears Ricochet” goes like this:And I can go anywhere I wantAnywhere I want, just not homeAnd you can aim for my heart, go for bloodBut you would still miss me in your bonesAnd I still talk to you (when I’m screaming at the sky)And when you can’t sleep at night (you hear my stolen lullabies)Imagine an entire football stadium singing about what a jerk you are. Imagine dozens and dozens of entirely-sold-out football stadiums singing about what a jerk you are.She has so far released three rerecorded albums. Some people say that she sounds older, or that she has less of the original emotion that fueled the songs in the first place, but that doesn’t account for what an interesting postmodern experiment the whole enterprise is — Eras as proof of concept, a woman looking back on her youth to remember what she is made of, not with shame but with curiosity and even delight. It had never occurred to me to look back on even my most carefree and innocuous eras with anything but shame. One can enter Swiftiedom at any level: avocation or vocation, background music or full-time job. Being a Swiftie at the highest level means access to an all-consuming, all-absorbing empire of evidence, where all the questions have answers, all the mysteries are solved, where you get to feel excited and smart and involved with something bigger than yourself without ever looking up from your phone. Let’s go straight to that level. That’s the level where we read the codes she leaves in her liner notes with random capital letters to equal the name of the guy that the song is about or a secret message. The level where she seems to indicate to her fans which album is being recorded next via a series of hidden images in an Instagram post. The level where, as I began writing this, legions of fans were crunching and computing and tabulating data to determine if (and why and how) the number 112 is significant when it comes to predicting the releases of her rerecordings.Take the single “Karma,” off “Midnights.” In it, she sings, “Karma is my boyfriend, Karma is a god, Karma is the breeze in my hair on the weekend. … Spider Boy, king of thieves, weave your little webs of opacity.” As I write this, I have been glitter-pilled enough to not be able to see anything but this: “Boyfriend” is a song by Justin Bieber. “God is a woman” is one by Ariana Grande; so is “my hair.” Now: “sweet like justice,” a lyric in that same song. “Sweetener” is a Grande album; she has a perfume named Sweet Like Candy. “Justice” is a Bieber album. On to “Spider Boy”: Both Grande and Bieber were clients of one Scooter Braun, who also shares his initials with Scott Borchetta. The song is called “Karma”! By the way, Grande and Bieber were among the clients reported to have dropped Scooter Braun as their manager on the day I wrote this sentence, which was also the anniversary of the announcement of the “Reputation” album. (Additional reporting by 1,000 TikTok accounts and a million other sources I found on the internet, which was originally built for the military.)This is the kind of thing you need to understand before you can begin to parse what happened with Karlie Kloss.People had been telling Taylor Swift for years that she looked just like the model, that she reminded them of her, that they should meet. Her first public mention of Karlie Kloss is in a 2012 Vogue cover profile, where Taylor says that she loves Karlie Kloss and would like to bake cookies with her. Karlie tweeted in response to the Vogue quote: “Your kitchen or mine?”The two became inseparable, taking pictures, dressing alike, dancing at concerts. Taylor gave a journalist a tour of her apartment in TriBeCa that included a room where Karlie stayed when she was over. Taylor sang at two Victoria’s Secret fashion shows, the two of them sharing looks and holding hands at various points. Philip Montgomery for The New York TimesBut then in 2016, Karlie Kloss punted on a press question about Kim Kardashian, saying that Kim had been “a lovely person to me in the past.” This was right after Snakegate; were things starting to fray? Then, in 2018, Karlie married Josh Kushner, and TAYLOR WAS NOT THERE. But you know who was? SCOOTER BRAUN! WHO IS KARLIE’S FORMER MANAGER! A theory surfaced (one that I will continue to believe no matter what you tell me) that in a supplementary photo in the “Reputation” album, Taylor’s left eye had been replaced with Karlie Kloss’s left eye. What is “Reputation” but an album of coded regrets? What is revenge but exchanging an eye for an eye? I am worried I will be fired for even printing a draft of this theory, but I have examined this from all sides. The evidence is overwhelming! Consider the song off “evermore” called “it’s time to go.”When the words of a sister Come back in whispersThat prove she was not In fact what she seemed,Not a twin from your dreamsShe’s a crook who was caughtThat’s proof enough for me!Then there’s “Maroon,” the beautiful second song on “Midnights.” It begins with the story of waking up the morning after a drunken night. But even before the first verse is up, it’s clear that the story is a sad memory: “I see you every day now” is that first verse’s wistful last line.It goes on to recount a breakup, and the various colors of those memories, the hues of residual anger and loss, but mostly the sadness that’s left when the blush of love colored pink fades: “I feel you no matter what,” it goes. Then, almost in a yell, “The rubies that I gave up!” Its bridge is a simple two lines repeated:And I wake with your memory over meThat’s a real [expletive]ing legacy.I can’t remember the first time I saw the hashtag #kaylor; it’s as if the fan theory that Taylor and Karlie were in a romantic relationship always existed, with all its half-clues and song codes and blurry video that asks if they’re kissing. And maybe, I don’t know, sure. But it’s too simplistic to think of “Maroon” as a traditional romantic breakup song. I do think it’s about Karlie Kloss, though. Like all of Taylor’s songs, even the ones that absolutely probably are about her masters being sold to Scooter Braun, it’s built like a love song. But I would submit that this isn’t for subterfuge, or even to make the song more traditionally relatable. Instead, if this song is about Karlie Kloss, it is about the devastation of losing a best friend. Philip Montgomery for The New York TimesI’m not sure why it never occurred to me that there should be more songs about things that aren’t romantic love, why I never thought we deserved more examination of the complex emotionality of the parts of our lives that exist outside it. I’ll tell you, I never think about any of my ex-boyfriends, not ever. But I do think about the times I’ve been screwed over in business by the people who were supposed to be taking care of me. And I do think about the best friends I’ve lost in my lifetime — I wake with their memories over me. If I wrote songs, I’d write about that. You could say that Eras is cynical; you of course would discourage disavowing your past if you needed to remarket it to your audience. But look around this stadium. You don’t enrapture an audience like this unless you’re saying something real — something these legions of girls and women have been waiting to hear: that we are more than the moment on the balcony, where romance awaits. We are also everything before and after that. What Taylor Swift knows is that it’s fun to sing about boys and men and romance, but that those moments when we stand on a balcony as the person we desire gallops toward us, or the moment that we win the affection of a person despite his allegiance to another, are only the smallest parts of a woman’s life, no matter what the movies tell you. The ways that our trust and loyalty are weaponized against us is also the dominion of femaledom — the pain we feel over it, the way we can’t ever quite forget. Those things are worth singing about, too. It is probably true that Taylor Swift was too busy to talk to me. (It is also possible she didn’t like something I wrote about her in the past?) It is almost certainly true that she didn’t want to talk to me — celebrities rarely do. But what is definitely true is that she didn’t need to talk to me. On the day I wrote this, Taylor Swift had 468 million followers across Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and TikTok, whereas The New York Times had a mere 92 million. Absent the usual publicity contract obligation, I honestly can’t see a reason that someone who has revolutionized the relationship a singer can have with her fans should want an intermediary. Certainly she has sold enough albums without our help. But also? I don’t know if I could tell a story about Taylor Swift that’s better than the story she tells about herself, through every song, every dance, every video, every social transmission. She is a master not just at the revelation of information but the analysis of each revelation, the scrutiny of that analysis, the contextualization of it all. The way this concert has consumed the world is the living embodiment of one destabilizing question to me: How could I interpret Taylor Swift better than she does, better than her fans do online, every day, without my interference or input? They’re reading her codes, hunting down her clues, complying with her wishes, finding themselves in her world — a place that someone like me used to have the privilege of visiting alone. She is inventing all of this in real time, and like other great inventions that cut out middlemen, this one might catch on. I’ve watched in recent years as our biggest stars have forgone sitting for interviews in favor of Q. and A.s with an equally famous friend, with an agreed-upon set of softball questions, or, worse, an Instagram post. This isn’t a loss for them; for the most part, they’ll be happy when the entire profile format is eradicated. I know this because over the last couple of years, I was on a leave of absence from The Times, and I worked with the exact kind of people I’d written about for years — actors, directors, producers — and sometimes, when we got to chatting, they would tell me about the time they were profiled and it ruined their life, or a relationship, or caused an embarrassment that they carry with them still. Sometimes they told me about a lie they told an interviewer because they were scared or trying to misdirect the journalist. Not one person I ever interviewed seemed to understand why the public was so interested in them personally. They spent their time defensive, waiting for a sneaky question or worrying how I would subvert something innocent they were saying.So the loss isn’t theirs, but ours — or maybe it’s just mine. Because I like writing other things, but I love writing celebrity profiles. To me, there’s no better way to understand the culture, and to understand the culture is to understand the world — to learn about ourselves by learning about the people we chose to celebrate, the people we voted to represent us in our own imaginations. I don’t know, maybe I’m just too in my earnestness era. Maybe I’m trying to call something a cultural shift when really it’s just a personal one. And it’s not even a big one: If profiles are over, I could, I don’t know, cover whatever else it is that this magazine covers. I could go anywhere I want, just not home. What I’m really saying is that once you go deep-state on Taylor — on the theories, on the codes, on the meanings — once you allow yourself to start thinking of your life in terms of eras, you can’t help but find yourself in your very own Taylor Swift song. Far below us, Taylor Swift was singing about an affair. “Look at this idiotic fool that you made me,” the lyric goes, and I screamed it along with everyone else, but my voice cracked, and I found that I was crying again. “What’s wrong?” Ezra asked.“You wouldn’t understand!” I sneered at him. “You’re just an old man!”I stood up so that a woman dressed as the scarf that Taylor Swift left at probably Jake Gyllenhaal’s house during her “Red” era could pass me on her way back from the concession stand. If this place looks a little like a comic-book convention or a clown car, that’s because there are no transitions in eras. Eras end definitively and violently. They come while you’re just trying to do your job and live your life, and one day you’re sitting in Section 301, and you realize that the transition happened without you ever even realizing it. If I did write songs, that would be the bridge. A little after 11:30 that night, the mayor declared her term over. The stage turned dark, and she sent the moon home, and the sovereign state of Section 301 of Swiftie Clara dissolved into a diaspora. By the time she retired, the mayor had donated enough money to a local food bank to make a significant impact to the 500,000 people it feeds per month, as she did in every city she visited. She had increased tourism spending by an average of $3 million for each night she was there, relative to the nights when the stadium hosts a football game. She had made a material passive contribution to the economy of Santa Clara by selling out its hotel rooms and crashing its rideshare apps. It’s estimated that her mere presence contributed more than $30 million to the local economy. Prime Minister Justin Trudeau wanted in on some of that action, so he tweeted at her to add some of that sweet Taylor Swift microeconomy to Canada; she complied by setting some dates in 2024. Autumn approached, and the wind picked up and blew all the glitter from the concert into the ocean, but just this once, the fish weren’t angry. The usher I saw trade bracelets went home and wondered why football fans couldn’t just enjoy themselves the way the Swifties did, why they had to get drunk and fight. Men with leaf blowers went out to extinguish all that the wind had left behind of the glitter, to transition the stadium back to its football era. And the police went back to arresting people. And a young woman lovingly hung a stuffed snake on her mirror. And the college student from Sacramento put Taylor back into her Spotify rotation, right there at the top. And the HUSBANDs, who I hope, along with everyone else in Section 301, will forgive me my hyperbole, went home and worked on their lats, and Ezra and I went home, too, but I still wear a beaded bracelet a woman gave me that says REPUTATION, and when I look at it I think: How the kingdom lights shined just for me and you. Philip Montgomery for The New York TimesAnd Taylor Swift arrived in Los Angeles, the next stop on her U.S. tour. She was to play the first of six shows on Aug. 3, which I hope by now you know is Karlie Kloss’s birthday, and what song that is not part of the regular Eras set list did she play as a surprise? SHE PLAYED “MAROON”! She played a song that we think is about Karlie Kloss ON KARLIE KLOSS’S BIRTHDAY, and we were expected to go to sleep that night and to work the next day and care for our children and generally function amid the legion of algebraic calculations we were making in our heads. And then, at her last Los Angeles show, two crazy things happened. One was that she wore a series of previously unseen blue outfits, and blue is associated with “1989” for some reason, and this indicated that SOMETHING WAS GOING TO HAPPEN, and IT DID. She announced that since she was a teenager — I’ll say 19 — she has always wanted to own her own music, and that now, on this day in August (which is the eighth month of the year), and this is the ninth day of that month, she would be releasing the rerecorded “1989” in October.If that is not enough — and it is, it is — let me tell you the other thing that happened:KARLIE! KLOSS! HERSELF! SHOWED! UP!Yes, Karlie Kloss, who might not have been a romantic entanglement but could yes be called the love of her life, same as any of our best friends, came to the stadium and danced in the bleachers. The chaos this caused, the time I lost.And meanwhile, I saw on TikTok that a woman whose handle is @nikkiking23 solved the 112 thing, and by this far in the story I will declare it basically undeniable. (SHE IS RELEASING ALBUMS IN 112-DAY CYCLES BECAUSE 112 IS THE NUMBER OF SONGS THAT WERE SOLD TO SCOOTER BRAUN WITHOUT HER PERMISSION!!!!!!!!!!!) And I sat at home, trying my best to return to those feelings I had in the stadium. I sat in the bathroom, on the floor, going through TikToks every night that recounted the concert. I was in my “folklore” era by then, pensive and thinking about my life. I pitched an idea to my editor about the Real Housewives of New York trying to unionize. In the mornings, I waited till everyone was out of the house, and I sang songs from “Reputation” — dirty but also silly. I haven’t done that in years.And somewhere in Northern California, the prom queen of Section 301 of the kingdom of Swiftie Clara opens the closet door in her bedroom and touches the purple dress she was wearing the night she got engaged, but really the night she was at the Taylor Swift concert. She puts on the dress and picks up her hairbrush and puts on “Love Story,” and she sings the song that was playing when she got engaged, the song that was a little bit taken from her that day even as it became a monumental part of her own permanent history. But even as she sings, even as she finds the old pleasure in the song, she remembers her time on the balcony of Section 301. She understands for the first time that those balcony moments are more fun to wait for than to live. Because once you live them, there starts a backward-counting clock in which the bedroom is no longer yours alone, and singing “Love Story” in your purple dress will make less and less sense. And that’s when her pink landline phone rings. She answers it, and it’s Taylor and me, conference-bombing her. We tell her that we’re sorry that she has to move on. We tell her that it’s sad that you don’t get to decide to leave your eras, that the leaving is done for you. Time only moves forward, we say into the phone. You can’t be a girl forever — they won’t let you, and we all three have to grow and move on constantly. You will always have to leave a place before you’re ready. You can go anywhere you want, we tell her in a reprise, just not home. She cries into the phone, and we let her, me and Taylor — Taylor Swift, who sings the song of us all, who says all of this better than I ever could. I’ll tell you, I like being a woman OK, but long live being a girl. More

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    Kanye West Returns to the Stage With Travis Scott

    The rapper, now known as Ye, had not performed live since a series of antisemitic comments last year led to rebukes in music and fashion.Ye, the rap star formerly known as Kanye West, on Monday made his first concert appearance after a series of antisemitic remarks on social media and in interviews last year, which led to his alienation from the music industry and loss of lucrative fashion deals with Adidas, Gap and Balenciaga.Ye’s return to the stage came as a guest during a livestreamed album-release concert by Travis Scott at Circus Maximus, the park in central Rome that in ancient times was the site of a giant stadium where chariot races and other entertainment took place.Scott, a protégé of Ye’s, brought his mentor out during a concert to celebrate his chart-topping new album, “Utopia.” With Scott dressed in white and Ye all in black — initially with a hood and mask, which didn’t stay on for long — they performed two Ye songs together: “Praise God,” from his 2021 album “Donda,” and “Can’t Tell Me Nothing,” a Kanye West classic from his 2007 album “Graduation.”“There is no ‘Utopia’ without Kanye West,” Scott told the crowd. “There is no Travis Scott without Kanye West. There is no Rome without Kanye West.”After years of erratic and controversial behavior, Ye finally crossed a line with the music and fashion industries last fall, after he showed up at Paris Fashion Week in a shirt that read “White Lives Matter,” and then tweeted that he would go “death con 3 On JEWISH PEOPLE.” That led to his expulsion from social media, his ejection from the Creative Artists Agency and the loss of his Yeezy brand sneaker and fashion design partnerships. The deal with Adidas had been especially valuable, contributing more than 10 percent of the $2 billion in profit that the company made in 2021.Despite widespread condemnations, Ye doubled down on his comments. Last December, he joined “Infowars,” the online talk show hosted by Alex Jones, the conspiracy theorist who has been ordered to pay nearly $1.5 billion for promulgating lies about the Sandy Hook school shooting in 2012. On that show, Ye said, “I love Jewish people, but I also love Nazis,” and “I do love Hitler.”Ye had largely kept a low profile since then, though last week Twitter restored Ye’s account. It had been suspended a day after the Infowars interview, with Elon Musk, the owner of Twitter — which has now been rebranded as X — saying that Ye had “violated our rule against incitement to violence.”Before the Rome appearance, Ye’s last concert was in Miami in February 2022, promoting his album “Donda 2.” More

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    Mahogany L. Browne’s Love Letter to Hip-Hop

    It was a clear black night, a clear white moon. Warren G, “Regulate” (1994)Originally appearing on the soundtrack of the Tupac Shakur film “Above the Rim,” this song is built around a sample of Michael McDonald’s “I Keep Forgettin’ (Every Time You’re Near).” I’m looking like a star when you see me make a wish. […] More

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    America Has a Problem

    Listen and follow ‘Still Processing’Apple Podcasts | Spotify | Stitcher | Amazon MusicWesley Morris and Elyssa Dudley, Hans Buetow and “We’re in deeply vile territory, and I can’t make intellectual sense of that,” Wesley Morris says about the rapper Kanye West, who now goes by Ye.In 2004, when Ye released his album “College Dropout,” he seemed to be challenging Black orthodoxy in ways that felt exciting and risky. But over the years, his expression of “freedom” has felt anything but free. His embrace of anti-Black, antisemitic and white supremacist language “comes at the expense of other people’s safety,” their humanity and their dignity, J Wortham says.Today: The undoing of Kanye West — and what it means to divest from someone whose art, for two decades, had awed, challenged and excited you.Kanye West in 2016.Taylor Hill/Getty ImagesAdditional resources:In “The Long Emancipation,” Rinaldo Walcott distinguishes between emancipation and freedom, and argues that we are still living in a period of emancipation.Keeanga-Yamahtta Taylor explores the enduring power of “Scenes of Subjection: Terror, Slavery, and Self-Making in Nineteenth-Century America,” Saidiya Hartman’s book from 1997.In “Freedom Dreams: The Black Radical Imagination,” Robin D.G. Kelley examines how Black artists and activists of the 20th century turned to imagination to envision a better future.Wesley and J previously discussed Ye and all his controversies in this episode from 2018.Hosted by: Wesley Morris and J WorthamProduced by: Elyssa Dudley, Hans Buetow and Christina DjossaEdited by: Sara Sarasohn and Sasha WeissEngineered by: Marion LozanoExecutive Producer, Shows: Wendy DorrSpecial thanks: Paula Szuchman, Sam Dolnick, Mahima Chablani, Jeffrey Miranda, Eslah Attar and Julia Moburg. More

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    How Stormzy Crafted His Latest Album, ‘This Is What I Mean’

    The British rapper was inspired by a variety of artists, including his sister, in making his third album.LONDON — Early in 2020, Stormzy thought he knew what kind of album he wanted to make. He wanted it to be “proper hard,” the British rapper said in a recent video interview.But then the pandemic hit, and “This Is What I Mean,” Stormzy’s recently released third album, ended up being made in a period of stillness when there was nothing to do except “chill, look after my dogs and make an album, and hear my thoughts and listen to God,” he said.Making the record from this space was a change of pace for Stormzy, 29, born Michael Ebenezer Kwadjo Omari Owuo Jr. He is now Britain’s highest profile rapper, and has built an ever-growing portfolio of initiatives for Black Britons and other people of color.Musically, he’s credited with being instrumental in Britain’s revival of grime music, and he was the first solo Black British artist to headline Glastonbury Festival.But when it came to making “This Is What I Mean,” “I didn’t have my cape on, ” he said. “I was just Mike, just navigating life.” The pandemic meant he had psychic distance from his public persona, and physical distance from the trappings of fame; the resulting album takes the introspection present on his previous projects and digs deeper.On the video call, Stormzy discussed some of the artists that influenced his making the record. These are edited excerpts from that conversation.‘Marcy Me’ by Jay-ZRozette Rago for The New York Times“Marcy Me,” from Jay-Z’s 2017 album “4:44,” exemplifies what Stormzy respects most about the New York rapper: his seemingly effortless delivery of effortful penmanship.“That takes dedication to your craft, and that takes studying your craft,” Stormzy said, “where you are now able to come out and rap at the highest level, and make it look like you just rolled out of bed.”A line could be drawn between “4:44,” which is, in part, a sonic confessional, and “This is What I Mean,” which is also an exercise in vulnerability. “I feel like with any great art that you consume, I think that it consciously or subconsciously inspires you,” Stormzy said, adding that seeing Jay-Z be so vulnerable “made me feel like, OK, that’s what we’re doing.”‘All of the Lights’ by Kanye WestThe influence of Ye, the scandal-prone artist formerly known as Kanye West, is “unashamedly” present on the titular song on “This Is What I Mean,” Stormzy said.That track takes cues from “All of the Lights,” off West’s 2010 album “My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy.” One of Stormzy’s favorite songs by West, “All of the Lights” is ambitious and baroque, loaded with short interludes from other artists. Stormzy thinks of the song as a painting, and the musicians, producers and instrumentalists the artist’s tools.“This Is What I Mean” is a similar exercise in ambition. “I’ve made that song with three different producers; I’ve got, like, five or six of my favorite artists on it and we were just painting,” Stormzy said.Beyoncé’s Live PerformancesLarry Busacca/Getty ImagesStormzy has a rule: If someone discredits Beyoncé’s artistry, “I don’t trust them.”His performances are often high energy, and feature theatrical moments. At the 2018 Brit Awards, he performed under a rain machine as rows of balaclava-clad men sat behind him, reminiscent of Da Vinci’s “Last Supper.” (Similar imagery was also invoked on the cover of his debut record “Gang Signs and Prayer.”)“There’s no one who has inspired my live show like Beyoncé,” he said. After watching her 2018 Coachella performance ahead of his own headline performance at Wireless Festival, he called his creative director to say they needed to start over.“When people see my Glasto, they see my tour, I’m like, yeah, that’s me trying to be a fraction of Beyoncé’s live show,” he said.Rachael AnsonReferences to Rachael Anson, Stormzy’s older sister, are littered across his discography. A D.J., Anson has hosted a show on a female-led online radio station and crafted mixes for the likes of Apple Music.Growing up in South London, Anson not only encouraged his ambitions, but also lent a practical ear when he was starting out. “The only thing that used to irk her about my raps was my flow,” he said. “My sister is the queen of vibes, she is so at one with music.”Her opinion continues to loom large for him: “Even now when I write, I’m like, aah, Rachael’s going to hear that” and she’s going to love it, Stormzy said.Frank OceanVisionhaus#GP/Corbis, via Getty ImagesIn Stormzy’s opinion, the singer Frank Ocean is the “most gifted songwriter of my generation.”Stormzy is a rapper who often sings, and said he has taken cues from the way Ocean’s music shows that “melody doesn’t need to be complicated to be beautiful.”“He hits pockets of melody that are really sweet to my spirit,” Stormzy said. “I’ve learned that from him, I can use my voice — whatever remit I live in with my vocal ability — to find these sweet pockets of melody.” This is especially clear on two songs on his new album, “Firebabe” and “Holy Spirit,” which Stormzy sings throughout.‘Growing Over Life’ by Wretch 32Stormzy is equally likely to rap over a drill beat, spit on a gospel song or croon over a piano: “Excellent rap is not always rooted in the energy and the gangster,” he said. He shares this proclivity with one of his musical heroes, the British rapper Wretch 32, born Jermaine Sinclaire Scott.Wretch’s refusal to be bound by any of the thematic or sonic restraints that are often found in M.C. culture has informed Stormzy’s approach to music. This is especially true of Wretch’s 2016 album, “Growing Over Life,” which engages with the personal and political treatment of Black people in Britain.Listening to the record, “I just used to be so blown away,” Stormzy said. “The best rapper in our country is rapping over these beautiful melodies, these beautiful pieces of music.”Wretch’s influence can be heard on the track “Please,” from “This Is What I Mean.” Backed by a piano, Stormzy is candid about his relationship with his father: “Please Lord give me the strength to forgive my dad / For he is flawed and so am I.” More

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    Kanye West, Dropped by CAA, Makes Adidas and Corporate Partners Squirm

    The antisemitic outbursts and provocations by the artist now known as Ye have raised questions about how much offensive behavior companies are willing to tolerate from a proven moneymaker.Update: Adidas said on Tuesday that it is cutting ties with Kanye West.Kanye West had already been burning bridges in the music industry. He was disinvited from performing at the Grammy Awards last spring after erratic behavior. He withdrew from headlining this year’s Coachella festival just over a week before it began. His last album was released not on streaming services, but exclusively on a proprietary $200 speaker device.This month Mr. West, who now goes by Ye, came under fire for making a series of antisemitic remarks and wearing a shirt with a slogan associated with white supremacists, putting some of his fashion-related businesses — which appear to be more lucrative these days than his musical ventures — in jeopardy.It has become a make-or-break moment for his career, and raised questions about how much offensive behavior companies are willing to tolerate from a proven moneymaker.Adidas, the German sneaker giant whose collaboration with Ye’s company, Yeezy, has been estimated to be worth billions, has said that their partnership was “under review” — prompting the Anti-Defamation League to ask, “what more do you need to review?” It appeared that Adidas continued to sell his products, though. (On Tuesday, after this article was published, Adidas announced it would cut ties with Ye.) Ye ended his Yeezy Gap partnership last month, before the latest controversies erupted, but in recent days Gap sent out promotional emails for the Yeezy Gap hoodie.There have been some signs that the fashion industry is distancing itself from Ye, as the former halo effect of his celebrity turned into an Achilles’ heel after he appeared at Paris Fashion Week earlier this month in a shirt that read “White Lives Matter,” and then went on to make antisemitic remarks on social media and in a series of interviews, posting on Twitter that he would go “death con 3 On JEWISH PEOPLE.”Balenciaga, whose fashion show Ye opened in Paris this month with a surprise modeling appearance, deleted him from its pictures and videos of the show. Similar images disappeared from Vogue Runway, the platform of record for fashion shows. And Skims, the shapewear brand started by Ye’s ex-wife, Kim Kardashian, that he reportedly helped shape in design and aesthetic, described him as a “small minority shareholder” and said that he had “no active role at Skims.”And Ms. Kardashian condemned “hate speech” in a post on Twitter on Monday, which named no one but said: “I stand together with the Jewish community and call on the terrible violence and hateful rhetoric towards them to come to an immediate end.”The designer Willy Chavarria, who last worked with Ye in 2020 on Yeezy Gap, said in an email, “I think it’s important for brands that use Ye for their gain like Balenciaga and Adidas to be forthcoming on their position on hate speech.”Ye has weathered crises before, especially since 2016, when he was hospitalized; he later said he had received a diagnosis of bipolar disorder. In recent years he has been condemned for saying that Harriet Tubman “never actually freed the slaves” and that centuries of slavery had been “a choice”; polarized fans with his embrace of right-wing politics and former President Donald J. Trump; launched a quixotic campaign for president in 2020; and split with Ms. Kardashian. He has continued to work amid it all.Much of the music industry, where an artist’s notoriety is often a key selling point, has appeared to take more of a wait-and-see attitude about his latest controversies.But there is uncertainty about his musical future, too. Ye is no longer represented by the Creative Artists Agency, one of the world’s major booking agencies, a representative of the company said. On Monday, the film and television studio MRC announced that it was shelving a completed documentary about Ye following his antisemitic outbursts. He is no longer signed to Def Jam, his longtime record company; his contract expired with his 2021 album, “Donda.” And Ye’s own label, G.O.O.D. Music, which has released music by other artists like the rapper Pusha T, is also no longer affiliated with Def Jam, according to a person briefed on the deals. A representative of Def Jam declined to comment, and Ye did not respond to questions sent to a representative.“Will Kanye bounce back from this?” asked Randy Phillips, who was the promoter for a benefit concert Ye performed with Drake last December at the L.A. Memorial Coliseum that drew more than 60,000 fans and was streamed live by Amazon. “He could. He’s a musical genius. But it’s going to take time. It’s not going to be immediate.”Reaching a High Note, Then FallingYe, floating above it all during his 2016 Saint Pablo Tour. After a series of onstage monologues, the tour was cut short.A J Mast for The New York TimesIn 2016, as he performed on a spaceshiplike platform that hovered over sold-out arena crowds during his Saint Pablo Tour, Ye appeared to be at the peak of his creative powers.More on Kanye WestKanye West, the rapper and fashion designer who now goes by Ye, has been at the center of several controversies.Runway Scandal: Ye wore a “White Lives Matter” T-shirt during a Paris fashion show. The use of the phrase, which the Anti-Defamation League has attributed to white supremacists, was widely condemned.Corporate Partners: A series of antisemitic outbursts by the artist have raised questions about how much offensive behavior companies are willing to tolerate from a proven moneymaker.Adidas Cuts Ties: The German sportswear giant, the most important partner in Ye’s fashion empire, ended its lucrative relationship with the rapper after his antisemitic remarks.Parler Deal: Parler, the social media service known for its right-wing audience, said that Ye would purchase its site, days after Instagram and Twitter restricted his accounts.His seventh studio album, “The Life of Pablo,” was his latest No. 1 hit and his show was received as an event. He was moving full-steam into the fashion world. His marriage to Ms. Kardashian, a reality-TV princess, had made him even more famous.But Ye never finished the tour.Shortly after he delivered a long, grievance-filled monologue at a concert in Sacramento that November, and abruptly ended the show after just a few songs, Ye was hospitalized, and the remainder of the tour was canceled.In some ways Ye’s music career has never quite recovered. In the six years since, his only performances have been scattered dates, with no proper tour befitting a major star. Once a frequent presence at the top of the Billboard charts, Ye has not had a huge hit in years. While his recent albums have usually opened at No. 1, they have then slid down the charts and been overshadowed by other releases.His career since has toggled between increasingly outrageous public controversies and sometimes remarkable creative achievements.On his 2021 album, “Donda,” he included industry pariahs like Marilyn Manson, who had been accused of sexual assault by multiple women, and DaBaby, who had made homophobic remarks and waffled about apologies. He made attacks on the comedian Pete Davidson, who was dating Ms. Kardashian, including in a music video in which an animated figure closely resembling Mr. Davidson is kidnapped and buried.Yet Ye’s “Sunday Service” performances — intimate, spiritual events including one at the Coachella festival in 2019 — mesmerized audiences. And his earlier period remains so popular that his catalog has held strong on streaming services, with more than 90 million streams a week in the United States over the last month, and a total of nearly four billion streams so far this year, according to the tracking service Luminate. His audience on the radio, on the other hand, has fallen by about 22 percent over the last month, as some stations have cut back on playing his songs.A Lucrative Fashion Partnership JeopardizedAt New York Fashion Week in 2015. The following year, he drew a crowd to Madison Square Garden for a fashion show and album premiere.Lucas Jackson/ReutersAs his music career has stumbled, Ye’s work in fashion has taken on new importance. The most lucrative corner of his empire appeared to be Yeezy’s partnership with Adidas, which began in 2013 after he left a collaboration with Nike. The Adidas deal, which involved both shoes and clothing, became hugely successful.Even before his recent controversies, Ye had been sparring publicly with Adidas executives, but so far the company has not elaborated on its statement more than two weeks ago that the partnership is “under review.” (The company announced Tuesday, after this article was published, that it was over.) There had been increasing pressure on the company to take action. On Sunday, after a group hung a banner reading “Kanye is right about the Jews” over a Los Angeles freeway, Jeffrey I. Abrams, the Anti-Defamation League’s regional director there, released a statement that concluded, “Decisive action against antisemitism by Adidas is long overdue.”It put Adidas in a difficult position. Its founder, Adi Dassler, belonged to the Nazi Party, and in Germany, where antisemitic statements made online can lead to prosecution, companies that played a role in the country’s dark history are often expected to uphold their responsibility to prevent the return of such sentiment.Ye has long been interested in fashion. In 2009, he interned at Fendi with Virgil Abloh, who went on to work with Ye’s Donda creative agency before starting his own brand. That year Ye also brought a group of collaborators and friends to “crash” Paris Fashion Week.A luxury debut (DW by Kanye West) at Paris Fashion Week in 2011 was critically savaged and lasted only two seasons, but his partnership with Adidas proved transformative. The company underwrote his clothing brand, Yeezy, which unveiled its first collection at New York Fashion Week in 2015, with Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Rihanna and Diddy sitting in the front row.Within a few seasons Ye packed Madison Square Garden with 20,000 people for a fashion show and album premiere. While his Season 4 show on Roosevelt Island in September 2016 proved a debacle, his potent combination of reality-TV celebrity, music stardom, sneaker success and establishment disruption was impossible to resist for an industry that often felt stuck in the last century.It is also why partnering with Yeezy was so appealing to Gap, the mall brand whose sales and cultural relevance were floundering. Gap hoped the partnership, announced in 2020, would last 10 years and generate $1 billion in annual sales.Instead it lasted about two years, and produced only two products until a third party — Balenciaga — was brought in to accelerate the line. Lawyers for Ye argued that Gap broke “contractual obligations.” Gap said it was “deciding to wind down the partnership.” Ye has suggested that he may open his own line of retail shops.Then, last month, Ye went to Paris. He modeled for Balenciaga, and held his own show, where he proved he could still draw top industry names — including the Vogue editors Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful and the designer John Galliano, who attended, and the model Naomi Campbell, who walked in the show.Before the event began, Ye offered what turned out to be a preview of what was to come: “You can’t manage me,” he told the crowd. “This is an unmanageable situation.”He made good on his promise.Courting Controversy, and the RightYe meeting with Donald J. Trump in the Oval Office in 2018.Gabriella Demczuk for The New York TimesWith Ye in Paris, photographed in her own “White Lives Matter” shirt, was Candace Owens, a conservative activist and media personality who shares his love for the spotlight and taste for provocation.Ye has embraced conservative politics since 2016, when he announced his support for Mr. Trump, meeting him at Trump Tower while he was president-elect and later in the Oval Office when he was president.For several years he has associated with Ms. Owens, a fellow Trump supporter who has become one of the country’s most prominent Black critics of the Black Lives Matter movement. In April 2018, Ye tweeted, “I love the way Candace Owens thinks.” Ms. Owens accompanied him to an interview with TMZ Live the following month in which he called American slavery a “choice,” spurring outrage.“When you hear about slavery for 400 years — for 400 years?” he said. “That sounds like a choice. You was there for 400 years and it’s all of y’all? We’re mentally in prison.”This month Ms. Owens posted on Twitter that Ye had been “officially kicked out of JP Morgan Chase bank,” which she described as “frightening.” In fact, Ye had decided to leave the bank, and he announced his intention to do in September on CNBC.Ye attended the Oct. 12 Nashville premiere of Ms. Owens’s documentary “The Greatest Lie Ever Sold: George Floyd and the Rise of BLM.” Ye then went on the podcast Drink Champs and questioned the official account of Mr. Floyd’s death, for which a police officer was convicted of murder. His remarks prompted outrage from the Floyd family and an apology from the show’s host, N.O.R.E.After Twitter and Instagram restricted Ye’s accounts this month in response to antisemitic posts, the social media platform Parler, which bills itself as a platform for uncancelable free speech, announced that it would be sold to Ye. Its chief executive, George Farmer, is Ms. Owens’s husband.Struggles With Mental HealthYe’s recent antisemitic outbursts and other provocations have prompted some in the music industry to wonder whether his behavior was related to his mental health struggles.Ye has long alluded to mental health issues in lyrics — as early as 2005, in “Gossip Files,” he raps, “They told my mama I was bipolar, had A.D.D.” — but his psychiatric treatment did not become part of the public record until 2016, when he was hospitalized.He has acknowledged a diagnosis of bipolar disorder, but at times, including during his 2018 meeting with Mr. Trump, questioned it and said that his problem might have been sleep deprivation. He told David Letterman the following year that he had been “hyper-paranoid” when he was hospitalized, convinced that people wanted to kill him.He continued to address mental illness over the years in interviews, on social media and in his work, often expressing reluctance to take psychiatric medications. In 2018 he tweeted, “6 months off meds I can feel me again.”During the summer of 2020, when he was often disjointed, emotional and meandering on social media and in public appearances, Ms. Kardashian, who was still married to him, issued a statement on Instagram asking for “compassion and empathy” as he managed his symptoms, suggesting his family had tried and failed to get him into treatment.For a person with bipolar disorder, a manic episode is “a very sped-up state,” said David Miklowitz, a clinical psychologist and the author of “The Bipolar Disorder Survival Guide.” “They’re full of ideas, sometimes ideas that get grandiose and delusionally unrealistic.”It can be difficult for friends and family to disentangle whether a person in a manic episode is delusional, or expressing their true beliefs.Rwenshaun Miller, 35, a psychotherapist who has bipolar disorder, said he regretted that Ye “doesn’t have someone around to take his phone” and ensure that he receives treatment. But he said the rapper should be forced to reckon with the consequences of his behavior. “I know it can make you do certain things, but it is also up to me to take accountability for things that happen when I am in a manic episode,” he said.The Industry Watches, and WaitsYe brought a Sunday Service performance to Coachella in 2019.Rozette Rago for The New York TimesWhile people in the entertainment industry, including many who have worked with Ye in the past, privately express shock about his recent comments, few have spoken publicly.But the heads of two major talent agencies that do not represent Ye have called for people to stop working with him. Ari Emanuel, the chief executive of Endeavor, the parent company of the agency WME, wrote an opinion article for The Financial Times calling on entertainment companies — including Spotify, Apple and “whoever organizes West’s tours” — to cease working with Ye.Jeremy Zimmer, the chief executive of United Talent Agency, wrote in an internal email that “we’re seeing a surge in antisemitism in our communities, fueled by Kanye’s comments” and urged a boycott.Representatives of Spotify and Apple did not respond to requests for comment. Universal Music Group, the parent of Def Jam, and AEG Presents, the global concert company that puts on Coachella, declined to comment.Some of the industry’s silence may be strategic, as key players wait to see if Ye — still widely considered an immensely talented musician with a gift for seizing attention — will express contrition and begin a comeback cycle. A successful one could be lucrative for any partner.Melissa Eddy More

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    There Is No Excuse for Ye’s ‘White Lives Matter’ Shirt

    Not from Ye. And not from his new YZY collection.PARIS — Yeezy is dead. Long live YZY. Stage three of the ambitions of Ye — the artist formerly known as Kanye West — to dress the world has begun.Presumably that was supposed to be the takeaway from the surprise show of Paris Fashion Week, held off-schedule in an empty office tower just down the road from the Arc de Triomphe.Though it turned out to be only nominally a fashion show and more like “The YZY Experience”: a chaotic mess of self-justification, confessional, bone-picking and messianic ambition, with a “White Lives Matter” shot of shock and provocation that overshadowed the clothes on the runway.The rumors began during the weekend, just a day or so before the Balenciaga mud show. Ye was in Paris and was going to stage a fashion show — a little more than two weeks after ending his much-ballyhooed partnership with Gap.Maybe it would happen Monday? Maybe not; Ye had just fired his PR agency. No wait, it was happening; he had found another agency. Then, Sunday night, a digital invite arrived. For the next evening. Guests were asked not to share the address.Monday at 5:45 p.m., the Avenue de la Grande Armée was heaving with screaming fans and photographers. So much for secrecy. They outnumbered the show’s actual attendees by what seemed like 100 to one.Still, Anna Wintour came. So did John Galliano. Demna, the Balenciaga designer, and Cédric Charbit, its chief executive. Alexandre Arnault, the chief marketing officer of Tiffany & Company and a son of the LVMH chieftain Bernard Arnault. Then they all sat, playing with the soap-on-rope that looked like three granite blocks and had been left on every seat, waiting an hour and a half for the show to begin. (Well, OK, Anna and John left before the whole thing ended, but that was because they had another appointment, Ms. Wintour said.)It was as good a reflection as anything this week of just how the culture and power structure of fashion and entertainment has changed in the past decade. Because it was 11 years ago, in early October 2011, that Ye held his first fashion show in Paris.The line at that time was called “Kanye West.” Heavy on the luxury frills — leather and fur and gold hardware — it was widely dismissed by its audience. But this time there they were, the powers that be of the industry, jumping at the last minute to see what Ye had to deliver.Which involved a live choir featuring a host of children from Ye’s new Donda Academy in California as well as his daughter, North, and began with his rambling speech about critics who complained about his shows being late; his former manager, Scooter Braun; his hospitalization (Ye has been diagnosed with bipolar disorder); the pain of being called “crazy”; critics who complained that his clothes might not be well made; the people at Gap who didn’t get his vision; Bernard Arnault, whom he called “his new Drake”; and the news that he was establishing yet another version of his own fashion house and it started now.Because “we changed the look of fashion over the last 10 years. We are the streets. We are the culture.” And when it comes to the culture, “I am Ye, and everyone knows I am the leader.”Except this leader was wearing an oversize shirt with a photo of Pope John Paul II and the words “Seguiremos tu ejemplo” (“We will follow your example”) on the front, and “White Lives Matter” on the back — a phrase that the Anti-Defamation League has called hate speech and attributed to white supremacists (including the Ku Klux Klan), who began using it in 2015 in response to the Black Lives Matter movement.The shirt was impossible to miss because, as he spoke, Ye’s image was projected behind him on a wall four stories high.Besides, Candace Owens, the conservative commentator, was in the audience and wearing one, too. Later the shirt appeared as part of the collection, modeled by Selah Marley, the daughter of Lauryn Hill and granddaughter of Bob Marley. (Matthew M. Williams, the Givenchy designer who worked with Mr. West earlier in his career; Michéle Lamy, Rick Owen’s wife; and Naomi Campbell also walked in the show.)It was the only message garment in the line, which was called SZN9 in reference to the Yeezy shows that had come before, created in conjunction with Shayne Oliver, the former designer of Hood By Air (Ye is nothing if not a great spotter and cultivator of talent). Which made it stand out even more in a show otherwise focused on garments that could simply be pulled onto the body, with no hardware — buttons or zips or snaps — involved, an idea that Ye first began talking about in the context of his work with Gap.As it happened, a lot of this line looked like that line, especially that part of that line engineered with Balenciaga’s Demna, including the full-body catsuits that opened the show, the duvet-like puffer ponchos, the blouson jackets and sweats that made the torso into a sort of steroid-filled G.I. Joe triangle, the lack of seams and the semi-apocalyptic palette.It has potential, but the import got swamped by the shirt, what it symbolized, and how its endorsement by a figure such as Ye — even one with a track record of wearing MAGA hats and toying with Confederate imagery — could be used as a rallying cry by those who already buy into its message.“Indefensible behavior,” wrote Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, the Vogue editor, on Instagram. Later adding, “there is no excuse, there is no art here.” Jaden Smith, in the audience, walked out. So did Lynette Nylander, the Dazed writer and editor.The next day, at the Chanel show, Edward Enninful, the editor of British Vogue and the most powerful Black man in fashion media, called the shirt “inappropriate” and “insensitive, given the state of the world.”Ms. Nylander had posted, “It doesn’t matter what the intention was … it’s perception to the masses out of context.”Indeed, in the end, it is the shirt out of context that made the news: not Ye’s theories about dress, or his allegations that Mr. Arnault promised to set him up in his own house and then reneged and now has become Ye’s biggest competition (an LVMH representative said Mr. Arnault had “no comment”); not even Ye’s assertion that, having disrupted the fashion week spotlight, he still felt “at war.” If so, this was a grenade that backfired.As to why he did it, backstage Ye declined to provide any theoretical framework. “It says it all,” he said, of the shirt. But what exactly does it say?That he truly believes he can appropriate the language of racial violence with irony? That someday the power structure of Black and white will be reversed, and since he says this collection is the future, that’s the world he envisions? That Ye gets a kick out of pushing everyone’s buttons? That he wants to see how far he can go and doesn’t really care about, or think about, the collateral damage in the meantime (including to those children singing at his feet), despite the violence this could feed?Or that, as he said in his speech, “You can’t manage me. This is an unmanageable situation.” More

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    Gap and Kanye West Officially End Partnership

    The experiment in corporate disruption that was the partnership between Kanye West and Gap is officially over.Ye, as Mr. West is now known, formally notified Gap via a letter on Thursday that he was terminating their agreement involving the Yeezy Gap apparel line, citing breach of contract. Instead, Ye is moving ahead with plans to open his own stores.The partnership, announced with a drumroll of publicity in June 2020, had the possibility of lasting 10 years and, Gap hoped, generating more than $1 billion in annual sales. Yeezy Gap would encompass men’s, women’s and children’s wear and benefit both sides, turning around the fortunes of the Gap by giving it the veneer of cool and giving Ye access to the mass market.Gap acknowledged that the agreement was ending in a message to employees.“While we share a vision of bringing high-quality, trend-forward, utilitarian design to all people through unique omni experiences with Yeezy Gap, how we work together to deliver this vision is not aligned,” the Gap brand president, Mark Breitbard, wrote. “And we are deciding to wind down the partnership.”Lawyers for Ye originally sent a breach-of-contract notice to Gap on Aug. 16. Gap responded with a letter on Aug. 23, but according to Ye’s lawyer, Nicholas Gravante Jr., “Gap left him no choice but to terminate their agreement.”He did so on Thursday, arguing in a notice that the retailer had “abandoned its contractual obligations.” The notice, a copy of which was viewed by The New York Times, said Gap had failed to sell products in its namesake stores and had not opened stores for the specific purpose of selling Yeezy products. YZY Gap stores were supposed to open in the latter half of 2021, the letter said.“Ye had diligently tried to work through these issues with Gap both directly and through counsel,” Mr. Gravante, co-head of global litigation at Cadwalader, Wickersham & Taft, said.He added that Ye would “promptly move forward to make up for lost time by opening Yeezy retail stores.”Gap plans to continue to sell new Yeezy Gap products that have already been created, including a collection for the holiday season, through the first half of next year.The Wall Street Journal earlier reported on Ye’s notifying Gap that he wanted to end the partnership.Two years ago, when the mall stalwart rolled out its splashy announcement about teaming up with Ye, the company’s stock price had its biggest uptick in at least 40 years. Industry insiders were surprised at the partnership between a very corporate entity and a very uncorporate artist. Mickey Drexler, a former chief executive of Gap, later told Yahoo Finance that “it doesn’t make any sense, in my opinion.”At the time, Mr. Breitbard said the retailer was excited to work closely with Ye in “defining a next-level retail partnership.”Ye and Demna introduced the first limited release of Yeezy Gap, engineered by Balenciaga.The full line of 36 styles reached stores in July.via GapThe deal included an option to renew after five years, at which point Gap was hoping that Yeezy Gap would be generating $1 billion in annual sales. The company originally said Yeezy Gap merchandise was expected to appear in stores in 2021, but the release date kept being pushed back. Analysts on calls with Gap executives often asked for updates on the apparel line.In the first 18 months of the deal, only two products were released: a puffer jacket and a sweatshirt. They were sold online only.Not until May, after Ye enlisted the help of Demna, the single-named designer of Balenciaga, and that brand’s ateliers was a full line of 36 styles, Yeezy Gap Engineered by Balenciaga, unveiled. Those products finally reached stores in July, many of them at higher prices than usual for the Gap: hoodies for $240, T-shirts for $140.Shoppers had lined up around a Gap location in Times Square, where the clothes were purposefully piled in what looked like garbage bin bags throughout the store.Whether it would be enough to change the trajectory of the Gap was unclear. In its most recent quarter, Gap brand sales fell 10 percent from the year before. The Balenciaga Yeezy line is governed by a different contract and will not be affected by the Yeezy Gap termination notice.According to Danielle Tully, another partner at Cadwalader, Ye is “not taking any action in respect to that contract at this time.”The partnership with Ye is rupturing as Gap is searching for a permanent chief executive. Sonia Syngal, who oversaw the Yeezy Gap deal, left the chain in July. Bob Martin is serving as interim chief executive.Ye has also posted statements on Instagram suggesting he is unhappy with his even longer-term relationship with Adidas. In 2020, the partnership brought in nearly $1.7 billion in revenue, according to Bloomberg. It is set to expire in 2026.Ye is known for being very opinionated and liking control, said Staci Jennifer Trager, who leads the fashion law practice at Nixon Peabody, where she is a partner. That can be difficult when working in a partnership.“Kanye seems to have a very specific vision and a very strong desire to see things in a certain way,” Ms. Trager said. “That level of control and desire to control things and execute in that way may not be aligned with collaborating with a brand.”These brand partnerships are like a marriage, she said. Couples have to compromise on which restaurant they go to, even if one of them doesn’t like the cuisine. Ye’s move was the equivalent of ripping up the dinner plans.“Now he can make all of the decisions, and he can have pasta every single night,” Ms. Trager said. More